How to Vet a Contractor (and Keep a List Worth Having)

The most valuable thing a long-term homeowner owns is not a tool collection. It is a short list of trades who answer the phone, show up, and do good work. That list takes years to build and is usually kept nowhere.

Here is how to build it deliberately.

Before you call anyone

Write down what you actually need, in plain terms. “The upstairs bathroom drains slowly and there is a stain on the kitchen ceiling below it” is useful. “Plumbing problem” is not. A clear description gets you a more accurate bid and fewer change orders.

The five checks

1. License. Most states license plumbers, electricians, and HVAC techs; general contractor rules vary widely. Look the license up on the state board site yourself rather than accepting a number on a business card. Check that it is active and in the right trade.

2. Insurance. Ask for a certificate of insurance, including general liability plus workers’ compensation if they have employees. Have it sent directly from their insurer or agent, not forwarded as a PDF. If someone is hurt on your property and the contractor has no coverage, the exposure can land on you.

3. Bonding, for larger jobs. This protects you if they fail to complete the work.

4. References from the last six months, not their three best jobs from 2019. Ask those references two specific questions: did the final price match the bid, and how did they handle the thing that went wrong? Something always goes wrong. How it was handled is the actual signal.

5. Public record. Check the state licensing board for complaints, plus court records for liens or judgments in high-dollar cases.

Reading a bid

Get three bids on anything substantial. Then ignore the totals for a minute and compare the contents.

A good bid specifies:

  • Scope in detail, including what is not included
  • Materials by brand and model, not “quality fixtures”
  • A schedule with a start and rough completion date
  • Payment terms tied to milestones
  • Who pulls permits
  • Warranty on labor, separate from manufacturer warranty on materials
  • How change orders are priced and approved

If one bid is dramatically low, find out why before assuming you got lucky. Usually something is missing from the scope, the materials are a tier down, or the permit is not being pulled.

Warning signs

  • Pressure to decide today, or a discount that expires
  • Large deposit demanded up front, more than roughly a third or more than material costs
  • Cash only, no written contract
  • Unmarked vehicle and no fixed business address
  • Offers to skip the permit “to save you money,” which shifts liability to you and creates problems at resale
  • Door-to-door solicitation after a storm
  • Will not put a verbal promise in writing

Payment structure

Never pay in full up front. A reasonable structure is a modest deposit, progress payments tied to completed milestones, and a final payment after your walkthrough and punch list are done. Hold back enough at the end that finishing the last five percent is worth their while.

Pay by check or card, not cash. You want the paper trail for warranty disputes, insurance, and your cost basis.

Keep the list after the job

This is the part almost everyone skips. When the job is done, record the company, the specific tech who did the work and a direct number if you got one, what they did and when, what it cost and how the final compared to the bid, license and insurance expiration dates, and whether you would call them again in one honest sentence.

Three years from now, when the same thing breaks at 6 p.m. on a Friday, that note is worth more than an hour of searching reviews from strangers.